Choosing oil for a chainsaw chain

Malfunctions of the Shtil MS 180 chainsaw and their elimination

The Shtil MS 180 chainsaw is in operation. There is a problem in the future. Before storing it for the winter, on the advice of the mechanics, I dropped 4 drops of motor oil (calm) into the spark plug hole. screwed the candle. Chain for chainsaw stihl ms 180 from $10. Company SP Savitsky A. To bizorg.su, id 1109322. At the moment I was getting ready to go to the dacha, I decided to take a look at the saw. I pulled the starter, but it wouldn’t turn! I turned the spark plug out, it was covered in oil, wiped it and put it back. the same. I turned it out, cranked the starter without a spark plug - everything turned completely. I screwed it back in and the starter doesn't turn. What could it be?

Rinse the chainsaw with clean, undiluted gasoline, pour it directly through the spark plug hole and slowly crank the starter. Later, drain the fuel and use the new one. After all these manipulations, dry the saw and spark plug and only then try to start it. Once you have learned how to preserve, then learn how to re-can it, and don’t just pull it and go.

Tell me, why might the starter stick? The Stihl 180 chain saw is brand new.

If you don't understand, you won't recognize it. Maybe the starter cord is poorly laid out, or maybe the tide is interfering somewhere. Shtilev starters are quite reliable and durable. There are no structural diseases observed, mainly either dirt or heavy use. If your chainsaw is brand new, take it to a service center and they will repair it under warranty.

I saw one feature of my own Stihl MS 180 chainsaw: when the gas in the tank runs out, the idle

increase and the chain begins to spin even when the trigger is released. When you press the gas, the chainsaw stalls. This continues for a couple of 10 seconds, then the chainsaw stops. In motor vehicles, I have not observed such a phenomenon, so that when there is a shortage of fuel in the carburetor, the engine speed increases. Why is this happening?

This is a common occurrence with two-stroke engines. When the supply of gasoline to the carburetor is reduced, the consistency becomes leaner. Consequently. increased speed, worse acceleration. This is accompanied by short-term overheating of the CPG. It won't damage the engine, but it won't improve your health. Avoid running out of fuel completely from the tank.

I have a Stihl MS180 chainsaw, which is used during the summer season to prepare firewood. Soon the reaction of the chain began to disappear when pressing the gas; the chain did not rotate at all, or jerkily. sawing is unrealistic. What could be wrong?

For a completely new chain and sprocket, the tension should be exactly according to the instructions. so that the lower branch does not sag. and the upper one could be pulled out with your fingers to the height of the leading link. Then the chain will move quite freely along the tire. But, the gradual wear of the sprocket teeth reduces its pitch. And the gradual stretching of the chain increases its pitch. and the time comes when the steps of the same sprocket and chain cease to coincide to such an extent that the recommended tension already causes difficulty in moving the chain. In this case, we recommend reducing the tension a little. Right before there is some sag in the lower branch. By the way, for the same reason it is recommended to use a pair, or even three chains on one sprocket. In this case, wear is moderate and there will be no accelerated wear of the new chain on an old, partially worn out sprocket.

After starting, the Shtil 180 chainsaw “chokes” when you press the gas, and if you start sawing, it stalls. But if you torture it with gas for 30-40 seconds, it starts working normally. I used up 3 liters of gasoline, the filters are clean, the oil is from the dealer.

If this started not long ago, then most likely something got into the carburetor with bad fuel. Needs to be cleaned.

I would like to purchase this unit. What should you pay attention to during the inspection?

Not to mention the engine itself, since it is better to diagnose it in a service center, you can look at the rest and get a lot of information. Significant mileage will be indicated by: A loose latch of the top cover. (Should lock tightly and not rotate due to vibration). A brand new sprocket on a battered chainsaw. If during operation there is no oil supplied to the chainsaw chain, you need to look for the cause of the problem. When the cover is removed, the motor moves relative to the housing. Sheared chain catcher and chain damage on the sprocket cover. You can also take a close look at the carburetor on the left side along the way. the place where the wire rod enters the choke shaft arm. On a chain saw that has been used slightly, it will be even and oblong. The longer the saw has worked, the larger the hole will be. From time to time it gets wiped clean. Under no circumstances should you take a saw that has even a small amount of free play on the right end of the crankshaft relative to the engine. This is a sign of a quick renovation.

How many seconds should the Shtil ms 180 chainsaw engine run at idle before turning it off?

Let it run for about 20-30 seconds and then turn it off. More. there is no point.

The idle speed started to disappear, at first I didn’t understand what was wrong, but later I remembered that I needed to increase the idle speed

I added it on a hot engine and it seemed to work out. I arrive at the dacha in a week and need to cut a couple of logs, I start the saw and at first the chain spins on a cool engine, then everything goes away, after standing for about 10 minutes I start everything fine only on a cool engine. This is fine?

If the chain turns, the speed is too high. It should be understood that a normally adjusted and serviceable engine is likely to have a slightly higher idle speed immediately after starting before warming up. And he can be promoted decently. before the chain rotates. As the engine warms up, the idle speed gradually drops. For this reason, it is recommended to adjust the idle speed only when the engine is warm.

Is it possible to install a clutch drum with a removable ring on a Stihl MS 180 chainsaw (“upgrading” the drum is allowed), for example from the 250th.

Read:

Can. Everything fits perfectly. Just don’t go over to 325″. It's hard on the motor. But there are a couple of aspects to keep in mind. On this set (with a removable one) the sprocket is a little larger in diameter and has one more tooth. The speed of the chain will increase in a ratio of 6:7, and accordingly, the load on the engine will increase. But practice has shown that this is not critical with normally sharpened chains. And 2nd. A completely new chain of 50 links is difficult to put on such a sprocket. (In general, 51 links are recommended, but they happen occasionally). The first time you will have to suffer to get it to fit on the sprocket and tire. And later, when it stretches a little, everything will be fine to dress.

I bought a Shtil 180 chainsaw. I filled it with oil and benzyl. Started it up and let it run without load at idle.

. I burned a tank of gasoline and periodically pressed lightly on the gas. For some reason, the oil to lubricate the chain never arrived; the oil hole remained dry. If during operation there is no oil supplied to the chainsaw chain, supply oil to the chain. Or will it start to flow when the revolutions are higher and the chain spins longer?

Diagnostics of the chain lubrication system of the Stihl MS180 chainsaw

I'd look at the muffler. If it has not been cleaned once in 6 years, it becomes clogged and the exhaust gases have nowhere to go. Usually, with such symptoms, either the air filter or the muffler is clogged.

I recently learned that it is advisable to turn the tire over on a chainsaw from time to time. for even wear. Tell me, is this so, is it worth doing?

Rotating a tire isn't just advisable. Necessarily. How often? depends on the amount of work. Not only turn it over, but also grind off the burrs.

What is the difference between the drive and chain sprocket of the Stihl 180 chainsaw?

There is no difference between a “drive sprocket” and a “spin wheel”; these are different names for the same part.

I bought this chainsaw, I really liked it, but I want to ask you, can my saw cut thick wood?

Standard tire length. 35 cm, it is possible to saw a log. 70 cm in diameter, if logs of this diameter predominate, then you need a chainsaw of greater power. The tool will, of course, cope with the task, slowly and surely sawing all large-diameter logs, but you need to remember that by giving heavy loads to a device not designed for this, you (at best) reduce the life of the chainsaw, that is, bring its major repairs closer.

Please tell me, is it possible to use a 45 cm guide bar on a Stihl 180 chain saw?

The chainsaw can accommodate a bar of maximum length 40 cm.

Where is the breather located in the Shtil ms 180 chainsaw?

The ventilation system valve (“breather”) is located “on top” of the gas tank and oil tank, and cannot be seen visually, because everything is covered by the starter housing.

The gas button gets stuck in the horizontal position. What to do?

Most likely, the lever-traction mechanism is faulty; when the unit is turned over, one of the levers or rods “falls”.

Why is oil not supplied to lubricate the chainsaw bar? What is the problem?

The oil filter is clogged. The channel in the chainsaw body is clogged. The tire channel and groove are clogged. The Husqvarna chainsaw chain is not lubricated. The oil pump drive (worm) is faulty. Oil pump is faulty. The oil tank has run out of oil.

What can you say about overheating of the Stihl

180?

I will try to explain about overheating of a working chain saw. I understand a working chainsaw this way: the carburetor is correctly adjusted (it is enough to set the idle speed to normal, by ear or on the tachometer 2800), bearings, seals, filters, spark plug. in order. The cooling system must also be in order, otherwise it happens that you cannot see what color the starter cover is, the grille is clogged, and almost no air passes through. If a working chain saw runs on a normal fuel mixture (high-quality gasoline with a sufficiently high octane number, good two-stroke oil and its correct proportion). then it is practically impossible to overheat (sharp chain

.
goes without saying). The cause of overheating is directly related to fuel; you can overheat a new saw in 5 minutes, and a working one at that. Cause of overheating. not the work or its duration, but the fuel or oil. Or both. And with moderate home use, subject to all of the above, this instrument will never overheat. Malfunctions and repair of chainsaws Usually, failure of chainsaws is caused by a malfunction of the motor or the appearance of breakdowns in its other components.
ignition fault; problems in the fuel supply system; piston or cylinder malfunction. In other components, malfunctions most often appear due to failures of the brake mechanism, lubrication system, ... Font size:

Additionally, I’m posting two photos (since it wasn’t very visible in the video).

In this photo the red arrow shows the collar.

The second photo shows the correct position of the oil pump (view from below the chainsaw). The red arrow points to the groove (channel) in the pump body, the blue arrow shows how this channel is located - BACK (towards the rear handle of the chainsaw).

Hamster paradise. Go away and get lost:

Note address:
There is a problem: the chain is not lubricated. I took the saw to the service center, where they told me that the seat of the oil pump had shifted due to overheating and it (the oil pump) had become disengaged with the drive gear. In a word, you need to change the crankcase. I watched your video about diagnosing the chain lubrication system. In it you did not talk about such a malfunction. Tell me whether such cases have occurred in your practice, and whether such a malfunction is even possible.

To Alexander

No - such cases have not occurred in my practice. Judge for yourself: in order to heat the polymer (from which the crankcase is made) to the state of fluidity, IT TAKES A VERY WORK!!! The piston will jam in the cylinder faster (or the connecting rod will break) than the crankcase plastic will begin to melt! My opinion is that, to put it mildly, you were “misled” :-)

I disassembled the saw using your video. I blew everything. I just didn't remove the pump itself. I looked closely for a long time and came to the conclusion that the pump is driven by a drive worm. Everything is fine here. And what they told me at the service center was that the crankcase disappeared. I put everything back together. I filled it with gasoline instead of oil. I cut down a small tree, and sawed it. I had to lubricate the chain myself after every two sawed off pins. Even gasoline did not penetrate the oil supply system. Do you think the pump needs to be changed or is there some other reason. I didn’t clean the breather because I don’t know how to do it.

All the same, the idea was to remove it and wash the pump itself, I don’t have much experience, but on 3 saws of this model, the procedure for completely flushing the lubrication system helped. (in 2 versions there were some clots in the pump groove in the 1st version, like a hair).

I have been working with calms for 2 years and the fact is that the oil does not flow, it is not because of the oil pump, but because of the hose leading from the reservoir to it (the pump), it becomes soft and this results in air leakage. I insert a thin tube into the hose from droppers thereby sealing it and helps.

Actually, the oil pump is designed to lubricate the bar groove and the end roller. Remember the test in the manual - there should be an oil trace on what you cut? If it is not there, then the first reason is that the hole in the tire and the matching hole and groove on the crankcase are clogged with sawdust! This very often happens after the tire has been reinstalled (the fastening has been loosened, the chain has been tightened). Cleanliness is the key to health.

Non-lubrication of the chain is a typical problem with the stihl ms 180; in our village, almost every saw owner has this problem. And the bus has nothing to do with it, and neither does the channel (although it may be). The first reason is oil. hose, the second is the pump. I haven’t disassembled the pump itself yet, but they say that the pump drive is wearing out. So don’t split hairs - take it to a (normal) workshop.

Why is the oil not flowing

on a chainsaw chain?

oil flows during operation

on the chainsaw chain, you need to find the cause of the problem. In fact, there are many reasons that influence the myth process. You should disassemble the chainsaw and identify the main problem. The probable prerequisites for this process will be described below.

There are several reasons for the lack of oil supply to the chain during operation of the chainsaw; to identify them, you need to disassemble the chainsaw.

Lubrication system malfunctions and how to fix them

The main malfunctions of the oil supply system on a chainsaw can be divided into two main types: these are general malfunctions inherent in all chainsaws and individual ones, which may vary depending on the type of pump and worm gear installed on a particular model. Let's begin to understand the faults in order.

Signs of a malfunction of the lubrication system, checking its performance

  • The chainsaw chain is dry and has a pale tint without shine.
  • The chain stretches relatively quickly.
  • The tire is very hot and may even partially melt the paint.
  • The oil from the tank is practically not reduced.
  • Reduced cutting efficiency on a sharp chain

All these signs indicate that the lubrication process is not proceeding properly. In order to check the oil supply to the lubrication system, you need to remove the side tire of the chainsaw and start it. Next, you need to slightly increase the speed while observing the end of the oil line. If oil comes in, most likely the amount is not enough for normal lubrication and you need to clean or replace the filter and, if possible, adjust the flow. If it does not, the problem is more serious and requires further diagnosis.

There is a way to check the oil supply without removing the tires. To do this, you need to point the end of the bar towards, for example, a freshly cut piece of wood from the side of the cut and increase the speed as much as possible, while trying to keep the end of the bar at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the block. If oil spots begin to appear on its surface, it means the oil is being supplied.

Troubleshooting

Once it has been determined that oil is not being supplied, further diagnosis is only possible if the oil system is completely removed. Of course, in some situations replacing the filter helps, but this is very rare.

Most common faults

  1. Broken oil hose. It can sometimes be detected by visual inspection. The problem is solved by replacing the faulty part.
  2. There is no thread on the oil pump shaft; replacing it will help.
  3. A defective thread on the pump drive gear can be similarly solved by installing a new part.
  4. Lack of main shaft corkscrew (relevant for some instrument models, for example, Homelite). You can fix it by installing a nail of a suitable diameter instead of the original corkscrew, cutting it to the required length.
  5. Blockage in the line. Can be removed by blowing with compressed air or mechanically, using a wire of a suitable diameter.
  6. Filter element clogged.
  7. The Stihl MS 180 tool, whose pump is not dismountable, often gets clogged. You can try to wash it in clean gasoline, if that doesn’t help, replace it.
  8. In Chinese chainsaws (Gypsy), it very often cuts off the grooves on the main gear, through which the force from the sprocket is transmitted to it.

Individual malfunction of the Stihl MS 180 lubrication system

Due to the fact that the Stihl MS 180 is one of the most common models of chainsaws, I would like to dwell in more detail on one fault inherent only to it and describe a method for eliminating it without replacing parts.

Quite often, on the Shtil MS 180 chainsaw, depressurization of the oil line is observed in the place where the oil line coming from the tank is installed in the saw body. The malfunction can be determined by the characteristic lubricant leaks on the bottom of the tool.

To eliminate the problem, you need to remove the chainsaw handle, remove the hose from the mounting hole, clean and degrease. After all these manipulations, apply sealant to the hose seat and install it into the chainsaw body.

You can learn more about troubleshooting and complete diagnostics of the lubrication system of the Stihl chainsaw by watching a video that shows the step-by-step process of disassembling and repairing the lubrication system.

Possible reasons for fuel failure

Oil may not flow to the chain only if there are two breakdowns. These include:

  • problems with air leaks;
  • failure of the oil pump
    .

The main characteristics of a chainsaw chain.

The main cause of failure is air leaks. This can happen due to depressurization of the oil hose during operation of the chainsaw. In such circumstances, you need to remove the hose from the hole. This must be done in the area where it is connected to the crankcase. Then the hose is seated on the sealant and installed in its normal position. If this does not help, most likely, elasticity has been lost. For future use of the chainsaw, it is advisable to change the hose.

2nd reason - failure of the oil pump

.
In common parlance this part is called a worm. When the drive fails, the oil supply to the chain will stop. The oil pump drive is a round plastic ring with grooves inside.
The constant use of a chainsaw leads to wear of the internal parts, and as a result, the iron hook located inside the drive breaks. After this breakdown, oil stops flowing to the chain.

Poor Oil Supply to Chainsaw Chain

Content

Chain lubrication system

One of the important chainsaw systems, without which this is impossible, is the forced lubrication chainsaw system. It is no secret that while the saw is running, the chains rub the chainsaw, which causes it to heat up and cause premature wear. To reduce friction, the chain mechanism must be constantly lubricated.

IMPORTANT. An experienced electrician leaked the secret to the network on how to pay half as much for electricity legally. Read more

Poor Oil Supply to Chainsaw Chain

Chain lubrication system

To supply chain saw oil to the tool, a special pump is used, which, depending on the engine speed, is dosed and provides lubrication on the saw bar.

The system uses oil to lubricate the chain, which has increased adhesive properties, it is necessary to distribute the oil evenly around the entire perimeter of the tire and hold it even at high speeds. Let's take a closer look at the oil supply system implemented in modern chainsaws.

Lubrication system design

Depending on the brand of chainsaw, the parts of the lubrication system may differ slightly in design, but their total number and connection diagram remain unchanged.

The main components of the lubrication system are:

  • The oil reservoir is usually located in the engine crankcase.
  • The filter element is installed in the tank.
  • The oil pipeline is a small diameter hose made of oil rubber.
  • The heart of the system is the oil pump.
  • Worm gear transmission gear from motor to pump.
  • The chain saw can also be considered an element of the lubrication system, since it has special holes for supplying oil; by the way, the chain itself is involved in transporting oil and, accordingly, also has some elements specifically designed for lubrication.

READ What does a chainsaw consist of?

Operating principle

The main unit of the system is the pump. The principle of its operation is as follows. When the engine speed increases, a gear mounted on the main shaft drives the pump shaft through the worm gear. In turn, the rotation of the shaft creates a certain pressure in the oil line, which forces the oil to move along it towards the tire.

The end of the oil channel is located at the point of contact of the tire with the tool body, where there is a longitudinal groove on which, when the tire is installed, the oil channel enters it.

Threading is necessary to ensure that oil flows into the bar regardless of the chain saw's chain tension. Simply put, in any position that the tire has during operation, oil will fall through the hole onto it.

Next, the lubrication process involves a chain, on the links of which, depending on the chain model, there is either a groove or a hole through which the oil is accelerated throughout the tire. As the engine speed increases, the oil flow rate also increases.

Some chainsaw models are equipped with pumps that additionally have power adjustment, and if necessary, the amount of oil supplied by the lubrication system can be increased or decreased.

The main reasons why there are no oil spiers 180

the main reasons why oil

verse 180.

Reasons for stopping the oil supply to the chainsaw

Brief overview of why oil

in
Chainsaw
stopped
being represented
on the bus from the tank Please support our channel in any way you can.

This function is very convenient because it allows you to save money and not waste extra oil.

Malfunctions of the lubrication system and how to eliminate them

The main malfunctions of the oil supply system of a chainsaw can be divided into two main types: these are common problems found in all chainsaws and individual ones, which can vary depending on the type of pump and worm gear installed on a particular model. We will begin to understand the problems in order.

READ Why the Carburetor Overflows on the Saw

Do not lubricate the chain saw if the chain saw chains are not lubricated. This has a negative impact on the bar, drive sprocket and chain, and can also result in significant repair costs.

Signs of a malfunction of the lubrication system, checking its performance

  • The chainsaw chain is dry and has a pale tint without shine.
  • The chain extends relatively quickly.
  • The tire is very hot and even the paint may be partially melted.
  • The oil from the tank hardly decreases.
  • Cutting efficiency on a sharp chain has decreased

All these signs indicate that the lubrication process is not normal. To check the oil supply to the lubrication system, you need to remove the side chain of the chainsaw and start it. Then you need to increase your speed a little while watching where the oil line ends. If oil is coming in, there is likely not enough oil to provide proper lubrication and you will need to clean or replace the filter and, if possible, adjust the flow. If there is no receipt, the problem is more serious and requires further diagnosis.

There is a way to check the oil supply without removing the tire. To do this, you need to point the end of the tire to the side, such as the freshly cut shims on the side of the cut, and maximize speed while trying to keep the end of the tire no more than 10cm from the push. If oil stains begin to appear on its surface, oil is supplied.

Fixing problems

Once it has been determined that no oil is being supplied, further diagnosis is only possible if the oil system has been completely removed. Of course, in some situations, replacing the filter helps, but this is very rare.

Access to the oil pump of some saw models is possible only after complete disassembly; therefore, without the skills to repair gasoline tools, it is better to entrust the repair to professionals.

Most common failures

  1. Broken oil hose. Sometimes this can be detected by visual inspection. The problem was resolved by replacing the faulty part.
  2. Missing threads on the oil pump shaft will help replace it.
  3. Incorrect threads on the pump drive gear are similarly resolved by installing a new part.
  4. Lack of main shaft corkscrew (relevant for some instrument models, for example, Homelite). You can fix this by installing your own corkscrew to fit the diameter of the studs, cutting it to the required length.
  5. Litter on the highway. Can be removed by blowing with compressed air or mechanically using a wire of suitable diameter.
  6. Filter element clogged.
  7. The Stil MS 180 tool, whose pump does not fold, often gets clogged. You can try flushing with pure gasoline if that doesn't help replace it.
  8. The Chinese chainsaw (gypsy) very often cuts furrows on the main gear, through which the power from the sprocket is transmitted.

READ Best Reciprocating Saws For Metal

Individual malfunction of the Stihl MS 180 lubrication system

Due to the fact that the Stihl MS 180 is one of the most popular chainsaw models, I want to dwell in more detail on one inherent malfunction and describe a method for eliminating it without replacing parts.

It is quite common to see an oil line at the location where the oil pipe coming from the reservoir is installed in the saw body on the MS 180 stainless steel chainsaw. The malfunction may be indicated by characteristic lubricant contours on the bottom of the tool.

To solve the problem, remove the chain saw handle, remove the hose from the mounting hole, clean and degrease. After all these manipulations, apply sealant to the hose and install it into the chain saw body.

For more information on troubleshooting and fully diagnosing a chainsaw's lubrication system, you can learn by watching a video that records the process of disassembling and repairing the lubrication system step by step.

Conclusion

Modern chainsaws provide a reliable supply of chain lubricant in the event of failures, during operation of which there is no need to operate the chain to avoid further failures. Troubleshoot your lubrication system by contacting a service center or an experienced repair technician who can guarantee the quality of the final result.

Repair of STIHL MS 180 chainsaw. No oil supply.

the main reasons why stihl

oil is not .

Chainsaw fuel system: 1 – fuel filter, 4.5 – carburetor, 3 – manual preparatory pump.

If the carburetor is adjusted correctly, fuel will be consumed in the permissible amount. Otherwise, it will end very quickly.

Slow reduction of fuel during operation

sawing is a common process. If it is missing, the chain is not lubricated correctly, so working with the chainsaw will be smooth. It is necessary not only to be able to eliminate breakdowns, but also to identify them without the help of others.

There is an option to change the fuel supply manually. The correct operation of the lubrication complex of accounting programs is determined by the method of applying the tire. If oil splashes appear, it means that all that remains for our client to do is set it up correctly.

Chainsaw Husqvarna Supplying Oil to the Chain

Operation of the Husqvarna 137

I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. During operation, a question arose. Should chain oil and gasoline run out immediately? I ran out of oil quickly. I think this is incorrect. Could there be something wrong with the saw?

In the saw, oil should be used for two purposes. mix with gasoline (if this is provided for by the design) and lubricate the chain. Main expense. chain lubrication. Because if you cut intensively. then it will end faster. And if you don’t cut anything, but just gas it. then the gasoline will quickly run out. Husqvarna 236 chain oil supply. Do not leave the chainsaw idling, as when the engine is running, the oil supply automatically turns on to lubricate the bar and chain. You can use a special screw to regulate the oil supply to the tire. If during operation there is no oil supplied to the chain, oil is supplied to the chain when fuel is supplied. If the oil is thin, it may run out faster than gasoline.

I'm confused by the presence of a metallic sound in the Husqvarna 137 chainsaw, like a bearing or something else in the clutch area here and there, is this normal or does something need to be lubricated and tightened?

This is the clutch cup ringing while it is new and completely unsullied on the inside. Over time, a certain amount of adhering dust will appear there and the hum will end.

I saw that the tire had become an arc. I can't understand why this happened. I did not apply lateral forces. If you place the tire on a flat surface, then the middle is 2-3 mm away from the axle. I straightened it out in a vice slowly, it became even. I haven't tried sawing yet. Could this happen due to tire overheating? And it also began (when warmed up) to stall from time to time when pressing the gas.

The worst thing is if the hot chain is pulled tight, but is not immediately loosened after work. So the tire bent like an onion. The best case is if it was immediately deformed, but was only seen now. In the first case, serious engine repair cannot be avoided. deformation of the crankshaft toe, damaged bearings and their beds.

I bought a Husqvarna 137 saw, immediately there were difficulties with the carburetor, tell me what can be done, are there any adjustments? It is unstable at idle and when you press the gas approximately halfway it seems to swell, and later it seems to be normal, but only at full speed.

The idle speed needs to be adjusted. There are 3 adjustment holes on the side, two side by side and one higher, in my opinion, marked with the letter T, so this is what you need to turn. Everything turned out great for me. Adjusting the oil supply to the chainsaw chain saw oil supply. You can safely turn it, he is responsible for idle. All you need is a thin screwdriver. Perhaps vibration causes the screw to unscrew or, on the contrary, tighten.

A small problem has appeared. The saw began to stall at idle. I worked not long ago. started it, warmed it up, sawed it off. I wait 15 seconds, and the saw stalls. And so a couple of times. What could it be? Is there a recommendation after the initial period of operation on how to adjust the idle?

The method for adjusting the idle speed is common, and is also fully described in the user manual. With the heated saw running, use a flat-head screwdriver to slowly turn the “T” screw clockwise until the chain begins to move, after which it turns back slightly so that the chain slows down. All. True, it happens with some saws that stable operation at idle is only possible at slightly higher speeds (the chain is not motionless, but seems to twitch). In this case, either give preference to stable operation and accept the increased threat when warming up, or choose safety as a value and press the gas lever a little while warming up, causing the same twitching of the chain.

The other day I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw, there seems to be an annotation attached, but as it turned out, it (the annotation) is silent about a lot: 1. does the saw need to be broken in and what is the mode of break-in? 2. Do I need to drain the gasoline (I think I heard that a mixture of gasoline and oil loses its characteristics quite quickly)? 3. Can the mixture be stored, for how long? 4. How exactly should the ratio of gasoline and oil be observed? 5. What kind of gasoline can I use? 92 or no lower than 92?

Based on my own experience: 1. in general, saws imported from other countries do not require break-in, but I would recommend doing this during break-in: 1 refueling at idle . 2. Gasoline must be drained during long-term storage, but you can leave it for a week without any problems. 3. It is better to store the mixture in a special canister. 4. if you do not add oil. ruin the saw, overfill it. will smoke during operation. 5. of course not lower than 92, I pour 95 from the Shelov gas station.

READ What to Make from a Chainsaw Ural

Husqvarna 137 chainsaw with uninstalled bar and chain. Oil supply by a pump located at the chainsaw headset. If there is oil. I did everything according to the manual. When it came to putting the clutch cover back in place, it turned out that it was impossible to fit the snap ring onto the clutch housing. Perhaps there is some undocumented trick?

They probably left the saw on the brake, which is why the clutch ring doesn’t fit. Take the brakes off and everything will be fine.

Over the weekend I ran in a new Husqvarna 137 saw. I used one filling of the mixture in two steps (half on Saturday, half on Sunday). The mixture was 1:40, native oil. I alternated sawing small knots (up to 10 cm in diameter) with idling and throttling. I can’t say that the saw starts with half a turn. somewhere around 7-8 jerks. In terms of vibration and noise, the sensations are quite comfortable. Saws like clockwork. Speaking of oil. The chain oil consumption was unexpectedly high. For one fuel station there are two chain ones. The chain oil was from Makita. Perhaps this is due to the peculiarities of the operating mode; after all, idling predominated, and they say that even in this case oil is consumed. I would like to know the opinion of a specialist, what this could mean. If during operation there is no oil supplied to the chainsaw chain, supply oil to the chain. Maybe I need to go to a service center, or maybe someone knows how to adjust the oil supply?

As far as I know, the calculation for the oil tank is based on what would be enough for a full tank of fuel. After using all the gasoline, I still have some oil left in the tank. But of course, consumption may be related to the viscosity of the oil. Perhaps it’s worth choosing a thicker one, I fill it with transmission grade in Stihl. When running in, I think there is no need to work at idle, you just need to work carefully not at full power of the saw. 70 percent of maximum power. After finishing work, you can let it run at idle for a couple of minutes to let the saw cool down.

The other day I bought a chainsaw. According to the owner, two chains worked, there were no complaints or breakdowns. The actual question is: are any preventive measures needed, such as replacing spark plug filters, etc. It starts well and runs without failure.

Husqvarna 137.142 DOES NOT SUPPLY OIL TO THE CHAIN!!!

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Husqvarna 236 chain oil supply

My solution to excessive oil supply

on
the chain
.

Check the air filter; if it is very dirty, it means that the saw worked in difficult conditions with almost no maintenance, the conclusion suggests itself. Look at the spark plug, if there is even light brown soot, it means you can wait for the spark plugs for now, and look in the tank to see if there is a lot of debris, if there is a lot. wash the tank, replace the filter.

The Husqvarna 137 chainsaw starts well. Due to the increased oil content, there was heavy smoking at first. It disappeared after a couple of minutes. The saw just tears the birch! The power is enough for the eyes. Poor oil quality also has a negative impact on the Husqvarna 365 chainsaw, but not on the chain. Gave somewhere from 2/3 to 3/4. I used up the tank and about 1/3 of the tank. The chain was tightened 2 times during the process. Is this how it should be?

Chain. yes, that's how it should be. New chains stretch very intensively. Use more lubricant, tighten it more often. Later it will stop if the circuit is normal. When putting a new chain (of any manufacturer) into operation, it is recommended to place it on the bar, pour plenty of oil on top and run it without load for a minute. one and a half. Then tighten it, pour oil on it again and drive for a couple more minutes. Well, use oil with the highest possible adhesive properties. Even if not special, at least a transmission. This has been verified experimentally. Once I was changing a set of chains on a saw and took two chains from one bay, marked one of them and “broken in”, as I wrote above, and the second. I just set it up and started sawing. Over time, the stretch of the first one was noticeably less than that of the non-run-in one.

READ Chainsaw Chain Oil Which Can Be Filled

Tell me where in the Husqvarna 137 saw to increase the oil supply to the chain? The saw is new. There were some leaks on the tire. What should I look at, is there some kind of adjustment screw? Can you get to the pump yourself?

The pump of these models is not adjustable. On expensive models of saws, the oil supply is regulated in if the oil is supplied to the chain in. If a tank of gas takes less than 3/4 of a tank of oil, the pump is faulty. A is faulty. just change. But if tank goes tank to tank, but the chain is still poorly lubricated, the problem is not in the pump. You need to look towards the oil. suddenly it’s not the same. Even when working with dry wood for a long time, the chain is poorly lubricated. There is a lot of oil extraction into the sawdust, there is not enough chain.

Chainsaw Husqvarna Supplying Oil to the Chain

My 137 Husky had a standard problem (impulse channel seal). After replacement, the saw developed an unknown problem. It starts up well, idles stable, but after 5 minutes of operation the power drops, the saw begins to operate at high speeds and swell. I assume that the problem is in the carburetor settings, but I don’t know what exactly to adjust.

It is possible that air is leaking through the same pulse generator. In fact, through which the supply is carried out, it is important to monitor the oil level. In principle, after replacing it is recommended to adjust the carburetor. You shouldn’t adjust it yourself; for this you need a pressure gauge; if the mixture becomes lean, you’ll throw out the piston. Look at the carburetor mount; when the saw heats up, it starts to suck in air somewhere.

I have a question about Husqvarna 137. At first (when the problems started) the saw was idling normally, but at high speeds it worked for several seconds and the speeds dropped until the engine stopped, then at medium speeds it began to stop abruptly and it was impossible to start until I unscrewed the spark plug and didn't screw it back in. I removed the carburetor, disassembled it, washed it and blew it out. results 0. I completely disassembled the saw and discovered that the rubber tube that connects the carburetor and the sleeve (small) had worn out, the group is normal, there is also a gap in the ring, there is play in the bearings (more noticeable on the ignition side since 1 petal on the flywheel is broken off, I think this is why and play) collected, starts only on choke, runs for 3-5 seconds and stalls. When you open the valve, it melts immediately; after several attempts, the spark plug and piston become wet. What could be the reason? Could there be an air leak from under the seals? Is the carburetor overfilling?

You need to disassemble the chainsaw. A rubber tube connects the cavity under the piston to the fuel pump diaphragm in the carburetor. If the tube is torn, then dirt will be sucked under the piston, and the pump in the carburetor will not work. I hope the tube has been replaced. If during operation there is no oil supplied to the chainsaw chain, the supply of flammable oil is in the tank. Was the carburetor disassembled, were the idle speed and mixture quality screws turned out? If the seals are sucked, the mixture will become leaner, and in theory the spark plug should not be filled. The fact that the blade on the impeller is broken is extremely bad. The imbalance at 11,000 rpm will be terrible, the bearing will wear out quite a bit.

I have a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. I don’t remember how many years ago the saw was. I sawed a lot. Recently it began to lose power, and a few days ago it stalled and stopped starting. What was done: 1. Replaced the spark plug with a new Bosch one. Result. zero. 2. Removed the fuel filter. zero. They put it back. 3. Disassembled. assembled the carburetor. (The screws were never touched). The membranes are intact. A set of membranes will arrive soon, we want to replace them just in case. 4. Changed the fuel. 5. Operating a Husqvarna chainsaw to increase the oil supply to the chain? Oil supply. We replaced the ignition coil from the 142nd saw. Result. It starts, but before starting you need to pump the trigger many times. And if it starts, the engine only works if you pull the trigger. That is, intermittently. At full throttle it does not work, at idle. Same. What else should I check?

Try also checking the muffler (if it is clogged with carbon deposits), the condition of the impulse channel hose, and whether there is sufficient compression in the cylinder.

READ How to Make a Starter on a Chainsaw

Chainsaw Husqvarna 137, there are the following symptoms: When starting the saw, the chain starts to rotate, you give gas, the chain stops. After I stop sawing, the chain does not stop, it rotates slowly. It can be stopped if you touch a piece of wood without gas, the chain stops, but there are slippages after that at idle.

Perhaps weakened clutch springs, or maybe just simple dirt in the cup. And you need to reduce the speed with the idle speed screw so that the chain stops.

The chain tightens spontaneously when the saw is running. Initially, I adjust the chain tension, leaving a small play for free movement, but during operation the chain is tightened to such an extent that it cannot budge and then sags. I adjust the tension, but everything repeats. Maybe someone has encountered such a problem?

There are several options: the drive sprocket is worn out. check and (or) replace the old stretched chain, so its pitch is changed; tire is worn out; poor oil supply.

I have a problem with chain lubrication. I removed the oil pump and don't understand why it won't pump oil. Previously, when I removed the pump, oil leaked out of the reservoir, but now it doesn’t. I pulled out this device where the pump tip is inserted, blew it out, and no results. I used a wire to clean the plastic tube where, I think, air gets into the tank, but no results. What to do?

If air gets into the tank. the pump must pump. Is the oil pump gear intact? (the weak link of these saws). If you lick at least one tooth on the gear and that’s it, no oil will flow. And the gear should move freely, without the slightest jamming. The gear has its own place or position, there is a notch in it that should align with the cotter pin.

The clutch spring has broken. I removed the clutch spring. Will this affect the idle speed?

Change the assembly and work calmly. I think a broken or missing spring will affect the idle speed. Checking the idle operation in your case is simple: assemble the saw and start it with the bar and chain installed. Don't forget to adjust the carburetor if it has been disassembled.

The Husqvarna 137 chainsaw starts every 15 or 20 times, although it works and cuts normally. what is the reason? Maybe I screwed it to the ignition when I unscrewed it or not?

Check the spark plug, if it's dry then the carburetor. If it’s wet, then it’s possible that the carburetor is overfilling or the ignition is acting up. How to adjust the oil supply to a regular chain. First, check the ignition, make a gap of 0.7 mm on the spark plug and pull the starter, if the spark jumps in free air, then the ignition is OK. Chainsaw volume of oil supplied to the chain depends on operating conditions. How to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain. Automatic oil supply for storage. If there is no spark, change the module (the spark plug should also be checked). But I think from your description, the carburetor is to blame. Tighten both screws until they stop (do not damage the needles too much), then unscrew them 1 or 1.5 turns. This will be the initial installation. Then adjust the idle speed. Afterwards, start working on the working speed. They are similar saws, I think the carburetor is the same. When I adjust, I immediately unscrew both screws three turns. Further according to the circumstances (I turn it away, wrap it up). But I advised you according to the instructions.

Tell me, I put an 18 bar, a sprocket and a 3/8 chain on the saw, it cuts perfectly, but there is a problem with lubrication, the chain is generally dry. I took off the entire body kit. It sprays quite vigorously from the hole. The window on the tire also matches the hole. What could be the problem?

Immediately a thought. check the oil pump, maybe the drive is clogged or worn, or maybe it’s not designed for that length of tire at all.

Chainsaw Husqvarna 137. When cutting, the cut moves to the side (if you cut as usual and the teeth catch on the boards/log). To ensure evenness, the cut must be made with the front part of the tire. Are the chains sharpened like that or did the tire slip somewhere?

Most likely the chain is sharpened incorrectly, this is my opinion. If the edge of the tire cuts normally, but in the center it starts to move to the side, then the teeth on the sides are sharpened incorrectly. Correct it with a file, and I think it will be fine. And if you buy a new chain, then you need a new tire.

Source

Troubleshooting Chain Service Issues

During the operation of the chainsaw, you need to constantly monitor the lubrication of the chain. Because this part works in the most demanding conditions. The chain is constantly overheated, dust and abrasive particles become clogged there. This negatively affects its service life. A special lubricant

. It is supplied to the chain from the tank, thereby ensuring unhindered operation.

If during operation

There is no lubrication and there is a high risk of overheating. When there is no oil flow, the chain begins to stretch. At the same time, the possibility of its jamming or spontaneous jumping off remains, and as a result, a person can receive severe injury.

The channels through which fuel is supplied can become clogged with small particles, so it is advisable to clean them from time to time. It is also important to monitor the oil level in the tank. Debris in the channel often causes the chain brake to fail. This could have a negative impact on your work.

Regular cleaning of the channels and general care of the chainsaw will allow the tool to work for a long time.

No oil flowing

on
chain
: prerequisites and solutions

When the saw chain of a chainsaw moves in the groove of the bar due to friction, a huge amount of heat is released. If no oil is supplied

on
chain
, you need to stop work and take all measures to eliminate the malfunction of the lubrication system. The combination of enormous loads and overheating of the headset is accompanied by its accelerated wear and premature failure.

  • Without exception, all chainsaws and their electronic analogues are equipped with systems of the same operating principle, the means of which are used to lubricate the bar, saw chain and its drive parts.
  • The standard composition of this device includes a reservoir from which chain oil is supplied to the pump inlet with a fixed or adjustable capacity.
  • Next, the working fluid in measured quantities enters the groove of the tire, in which it is moderately distributed by the shanks of the saw chain throughout the entire headset and the working surface of the drive sprocket crown.

Performance tires with a length of 400 mm or more are equipped with a driven sprocket. Repeated bearing lubrication is done personally, after 6-8 hours of operation.

Chainsaw chain lubrication

I want to use a TAD 17 chain on a Shtil 250 chainsaw. In winter it is very thick, won’t this make it worse for the oil pump, will it fail due to overload? And if possible, what is the principle of supplying oil to the chain in the pump? The oil pump, which is installed at 180 - 250 Shtil, is generally practically indestructible - it has a brass cylinder. Even working off takes twice as long as aluminum ones.

And the principle of operation is very simple. It’s a pity, there is no illustration, and I haven’t seen it anywhere. In other words, there are two parts, a cylinder and a plunger rotating in it. The plunger has a milled flat at the end. When rotating, the plunger moves slightly back and forth.

There are two holes made opposite each other in the cylinder. When the flat of the plunger approaches the intake hole, it is slightly pulled out of the cylinder - a vacuum is created and a little oil is sucked in.

When the flat is turned towards the discharge hole, the plunger is pushed into the cylinder - pressure is created, the oil flows through the channel to the tire. As you can see, in principle it is impossible to damage the pump with any amount of thick oil - it just won’t flow, that’s all. _____________________________________ If oil leaks from the tank when the chainsaw is idle, is this normal? Those. If you have to cut a little, then pour in a little? Otherwise, during the time the saw is inactive, the oil flows out of the tank completely. No. It is not normal. The problem is either with the oil pump or with the reservoir itself. In general, oil and fuel consumption is usually 1 to 1. _____________________________________ How to lubricate the drive sprocket of a tire on a chainsaw? Is Mobil or JCB hydraulic lubricant suitable, for example? What do you think? they smear the sprockets on all tires (except Shtilevsky ones), if you don’t lubricate them, the bearing can crumble, and then the tire is finished, and about Shtilevsky tires - on the one hand, this is kind of a plus, but on the other hand, I’ve seen almost new Shtilevsky tires with burnt-out bearings. _____________________________________ The chainsaw drives chain lubricant oil. At idle it flows very slowly, when you give it gas it flows in a stream. After about five minutes of operation, all the oil is poured out.

Does not respond to the position of the adjusting screw. Also, there is a little (0.5-1 mm) play in the sprocket that rotates the chain. Who has encountered such a thing? You need to remove the sprocket and reassemble the oil pump, and check the hoses for breaks. The drive sprocket must have a small amount of play. It shouldn’t be hard, vibrations will go to the crankshaft. _____________________________________ The holes match when I install it, maybe when tightening the chain the hole moves away because of this the oil does not get on the chain, but you can use one chain, how to dull it, remove it, put on a new one, sharpen the old one, etc. in a cycle of three chains. before the tire wears off? The oval hole for lubrication on the body of the chainsaw is made in such a way that at any position of the bar within the adjustment range of the chain tensioner, the alignment of the lubrication holes on the bar and the body does not disappear.

Ideally, a set of chains, when used on a saw one at a time in a cyclic mode, and the bar should become unusable at the same time. There are two lubrication options. Well, in the sense of what the oil is supplied through.

Most bars have a separate hole to supply lube to the chain, and these larger ones are used for tensioning. And some (and quite a few) do not have a separate lubrication hole.

And the free tension hole is used for lubrication. In this case, it will necessarily communicate with the groove of the tire. You can check with a wire. This is neither good nor bad, it is a feature.

So - in the second case, quite large oil losses are possible if the sprocket cover does not fit tightly. Then it just goes right through (unlike tires with a separate hole), and drips down. _____________________________________ After a minute of running the chainsaw at idle speed, I pressed the gas lightly several times and oil to lubricate the chain began to flow onto the chain so much that a puddle of oil formed right under the saw. Where is the chain oil adjustment screw located? And how to make this adjustment correctly? Your model does not have adjustment of the oil supply to the chain; oil is supplied automatically. Carefully inspect and thoroughly clean the oil intake holes on the bar, carefully install the bar with the chain. In theory, it should help.

If a puddle of oil forms under the saw, then the most likely result is a sloppy tire or a clutch cover that is tightened askew, as a result, a gap appears between the outlet of the oil pump and the lubrication hole of the tire, into which the oil goes. _____________________________________ Tell us in more detail about the oil pumps installed in chainsaws. Very rarely, modern chain saws (including electric ones) use non-piston pumps. One might say that they are not even applied at all. They all work according to the same scheme.

The main parts are an aluminum cylinder, rigidly fixed in the body and a steel plunger with a plastic gear, which rotates in this cylinder. How it works: There is one small hole at the blind end of the cylinder. There is another one opposite.

One of them is suction, the second is discharge. The plastic plunger gear has an oblique ring groove that aligns with a metal rod in the housing.

Mechanics: When the plunger rotates due to the oblique groove, it also performs reciprocating movements back and forth for each revolution.

Hydraulics: When the cut end of the plunger approaches the suction hole, the plunger is pulled back. A slight vacuum is created and a portion of oil is sucked into the cylinder.

Turn the plunger approximately half a turn - the cut section (with the oil in it, of course) approaches the discharge hole.

At this time, the plunger moves towards the blind end of the cylinder. Some pressure is created and the oil flows into the lubrication channel.

Now - about the differences in design: The gear on the plunger can be metal. In this case, the worm on the crankshaft will be plastic, there is no escape, there must be a weak spot.

The pump housing may be metal. Well, not bad, of course, but not essential. And the most important thing is adjusting the oil supply. In the first case, when the drive of the axial movement of the plunger is carried out by an oblique annular groove.

Adjusting the performance is technically not possible. If the longitudinal movement is carried out due to an oblique cut of the rear part of the plunger, it is possible to adjust the feed.

Using different options for the adjustable stop of the rear part of the plunger, the length of its axial movement changes, and, accordingly, the amount of oil captured per revolution of the plunger. _____________________________________ How often should you inject a chainsaw bar? And as I understand it, the lubricant should have a consistency similar to lithol? Or is the same transmission acceptable? after 1-2 gas tank refills. In addition to special lubricants for the driven sprocket, you can use lithol or bearing lubricants of similar consistency, widely available in stores selling automobile parts and accessories. The transmission is too fluid for this. _____________________________________ I bought a new chain, installed it, works great. But after a couple of minutes, the hole in the oil supply bar becomes clogged and the chain runs dry.

Literally enough for one cut. I take it apart again, clean it, start it up. Without sawing, the chain is lubricated. And after one cut, the tire is again filled with shavings.

I didn’t try to throttle it because I didn’t have time, the chain almost jammed, I couldn’t turn it by hand, and the bar and chain were terribly hot, the chainsaw stalled. Tell me what the problem is, this was not the case with the old chain? There is a big suspicion that in fact the oil is used for lubrication, only because of the large amount of dust (perhaps now you are sawing dry wood, or even with dust) that gets into the groove of the tire and is not visible on the chain.

What condition is the tire itself? Particularly important in this case is the condition of the driven sprocket and tire spacers (the chain slides along them during operation) in those places where the teeth of the sprocket “dive” into the tire during rotation or emerge from there.

Also, in case of excessive wear of the spacers, the depth of the bar groove could decrease below the permissible level and the chain shanks would cling to the bottom of the groove when moving.

In this case, there will also be excessive heating of the chain and bar. After all, apparently this chain is not the first for a tire.

In addition, the fact that the saw stalls when the chain jams indicates a failed clutch. There is either dirt between the clutch cams and the clutch cup, or the cup itself is deformed. The clutch springs may be stretched.

Signs of a malfunctioning lubrication system

The correct choice of consumable lubricant and ideal operation of the system contribute to proper lubrication, effective cooling of sawing equipment and the complete exhaustion of its service life.

There are several external signs that the chain on a chainsaw is not lubricated. First of all, this:

  • constant oil level in the tank;
  • increased load on the engine;
  • accelerated wear of the cutting edges of saw links;
  • the corresponding smell of overheated wood.

In the most common case, the cause of oil starvation may be clogging of the oil channels with sawdust. This shortcoming is typical for economical headsets that do not have comfortable access to problem areas.

Lubrication system - no oil supplied to the chain

If the chainsaw chain is not lubricated, you cannot work, as this could result in serious repairs. At this moment, the chainsaw chain is dry, quickly stretches, the oil level in the tank does not decrease, and the tire becomes hot. The main reason may be air leakage due to a violation of the integrity of the oil hose. It should be sealed, and if this does not help, replace it.

There are several other reasons:

  • breakdown of the “worm” (oil pump drive), which is expressed in a violation of the thread of the plastic gear. The problem is solved by replacing the part with a new one;
  • The main pump filter is clogged, which needs to be cleaned or washed in clean gasoline.

With a Stihl chainsaw, depressurization of the oil line most often occurs at the place where it is installed in the housing. It's easy to fix using heat shrink tubing.

Feature of independent troubleshooting

A complete independent repair of chainsaw chain lubrication, all things being equal, requires knowledge of the interaction of all elements of the system, the availability of tools and plumbing skills.

Restoring the operating parameters of many chainsaws involves partial or complete dismantling of the component equipment. To perform complex repair work, it is better to use the capabilities and technical potential of service workshops.

Parts with broken threads and damaged spline joints, as well as non-separable structures that come with the lubrication system of popular Shtil

180 and other similar models are subject to replacement.

Chainsaw Lubrication System Husqvarna 142

One of the fundamental systems of a chainsaw, without which work is impossible, is the forced lubrication system of the chainsaw chain. Everyone knows that when the saw is running, the chain rubs against the chainsaw bar, which causes it to heat up and cause early wear. To soften friction, the chain mechanism must be constantly lubricated.

Chainsaw Lubrication System Husqvarna 142

To supply oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain, the tool uses a special pump, which delivers lubricant to the saw bar in a dosed manner based on the number of engine revolutions.

The system uses oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain, which has high adhesive characteristics; this is necessary to evenly distribute the oil along the entire perimeter of the bar and keep it there even at high rotation speeds of the chain. Let's take a closer look at the oil supply system implemented in modern chainsaws.

Depending on the brand of chainsaw, the details of the lubrication complex of accounting programs of course differ little structurally, alas, their total number and connection diagram remains constant.

The main components of the lubricant that allows accounting (software) are:

  • The oil tank is located in the engine crankcase.
  • The filter element is installed in the tank.
  • The oil line is a small diameter hose made of oil-resistant rubber.
  • The heart of the accounting software complex is the oil pump.
  • The worm gear transmits force from the motor to the pump.
  • A chainsaw tire can also be considered an element of a complex of accounting lubrication programs, because it has special holes for supplying oil, when the chain itself is involved in transporting oil and, accordingly, also has certain elements designed to provide lubrication.

The main unit of the accounting software complex is the pump. The principle of its operation is the following. As the engine speed increases, a gear mounted on the main shaft drives the pump shaft through a worm gear. Typically, the rotation of the shaft creates a certain pressure in the oil line, which forces the oil to move along it towards the tire.

READ Operation of Chainsaw Partner 350

The end of the oil channel is located at the point of contact of the tire with the tool housing, where there is a longitudinal groove into which the oil channel falls during installation of the tire.

The groove is needed to ensure the supply of oil to the bar, regardless of the degree of tension of the chainsaw chain. Simply put, no matter what position the tire is in at the time of operation, oil will get onto it through the groove.

Next, a chain is inserted into the lubrication process, on the links of which, depending on the chain model, there is either a groove or a hole through which the oil is dispersed throughout the entire tire. As the engine speed increases, the oil flow rate also increases.

Some models of chainsaws are equipped with pumps that additionally have adjustable flow capacity, and if necessary, the amount of oil supplied by the lubrication system can, of course, be increased or decreased.

This function is quite convenient, because it allows you to save and not even waste excess oil.

The main malfunctions of the oil supply system on a chainsaw are divided into two main types: these are general malfunctions inherent in all chainsaws and personal ones, which vary depending on the type of pump and worm gear installed on a particular model. Let's begin to understand the defects one by one.

Operating a chainsaw without lubricating the chainsaw chain is prohibited. This has a negative impact on the bar, driven sprocket and chain, and can additionally result in severe repair costs.

  • The chainsaw chain is dry and has a pale color without shine.
  • The chain stretches relatively quickly.
  • The tire is very hot and may also partially melt the paint.
  • The oil from the tank is not actually reduced.
  • Reduced cutting efficiency on a sharp chain

READ How to Correctly Put a Chain on a Shtil Chainsaw

These signs indicate that the lubrication process is not proceeding properly. To check the oil supply to the lubrication system, you need to remove the side tire of the chainsaw and start it. Next, you need to slightly increase the speed while simultaneously monitoring the end of the oil line. If oil comes in, the quantity is usually not enough for normal lubrication and it is necessary to clean or change the filter, if possible, adjust the flow. If the passage does not arrive, the problem is more severe and requires further diagnostics.

There is a method to check the oil supply without removing the tire. For this purpose, you need to point the end of the tire towards, for example, a freshly sawed piece of wood with an unfamiliar cut and very much increase the speed, while at the same time you must try to keep the end of the tire far from its native edge, less than 10 cm from the block. If oil spots begin to appear on its surface, it means the oil is being supplied.

When it has been determined that oil is not supplied, the upcoming diagnosis is only possible if the oil system is completely removed. Naturally, in some situations changing the filter helps, but this occurs very rarely.

Access to the oil pump of some models of saws is likely only after operational disassembly; therefore, without the ability to repair gas-powered tools, it is better to entrust repairs to experts.

Reliable reinforced oil pump for HUSQVARNA 142 137

  1. Broken oil hose. Of course, it can be found by visual inspection. The problem is resolved by replacing the faulty part.
  2. There is no thread on the oil pump shaft, changing it will help.
  3. Defective threads on the pump drive gear are similarly solved by installing a new part.
  4. Absence of a head shaft corkscrew (an issue for some instrument models, for example, Homelite). There is an option to fix it by installing, instead of the original corkscrew, a nail of a suitable diameter, cutting it to the required length.
  5. Blockage in the line. There is an option to remove it by blowing with compressed air or mechanically, using a wire of suitable diameter.
  6. Filter element clogged.
  7. The Shtil MS 180 tool, whose pump is not dismountable, often gets clogged. There is an option to try washing it in clean gasoline, if changing it doesn’t help.
  8. In Chinese chainsaws (Gypsy), it often cuts off the grooves on the main gear, through which the force from the sprocket is transmitted to it.

READ Chainsaw Echo Cs 353 Es 14 Video

Due to the fact that the Stihl MS 180 is one of the most frequently encountered models of chainsaws, I would like to dwell in more detail on one fault inherent only to it and outline a method for eliminating it without changing parts.

Quite often, on the Shtil MS 180 chainsaw, depressurization of the oil line is observed where the oil line coming from the tank is installed in the saw body. The malfunction can be found by the corresponding lubricant leaks on the bottom of the tool.

To eliminate the problem, you need to remove the chainsaw handle, pull the hose out of the mounting hole, clean and degrease. After all these manipulations, apply sealant to the hose mounting area and install it into the chainsaw body.

For more information about troubleshooting and a working version of diagnosing the accounting lubrication system of the Shtil chainsaw, read by watching the video, which shows step-by-step the process of disassembling and repairing a set of accounting lubrication programs.

HOW TO MAINTAIN THE HUSQVARNA 142 CHAINSAW

Modern chainsaws have a reliable supply of lubrication for the chain; in case of malfunctions during operation, it is occupied, and there is no need to operate the chainsaw for subsequent breakdowns. To troubleshoot the accounting lubrication system, it is better to contact a service center, as it is also called, a specialist with experience in repairs, this guarantees the quality of the final result.

Source

Checking the system for oil output and performance

A dirty oil filter results in a significant reduction in pump performance. It is easy to check this parameter. To do this, you need to hold the headset of the saw running at working speed over a clean sheet of paper.

Based on the density and size of the oil strip, you can confidently judge the condition of the system and the complexity of the upcoming repair.

When asked why the repaired lubrication system works, but no oil flows to the chain

in the required quantity - there is no definite answer. The reason for the failure may be errors made during assembly, failure of standard adjustments, or a discrepancy between the density and viscosity of the selected composition and the declared characteristics.

Oil starvation of the headset is possible when installing a longer productive bar on a household saw with a non-regulated pump, which is included with professional-class chainsaw equipment.

What Oil to Lubricate the Husqvarna Chainsaw Chain

Content

Chainsaw oil Which one is better to use?

Virtually all owners of private houses, with rare exceptions, have a chainsaw . The tool is necessary, convenient, almost irreplaceable. It is a chain saw driven by a two-stroke gasoline engine. The fact that special oils are used to lubricate two-stroke gasoline engines has long been no secret. If you neglect the instructions, the operation of the chainsaw may not last long. chainsaw oil has

Preparing the fuel mixture for a chainsaw

When making a mixture of gasoline and oil intended for use in a chainsaw, special oil is used. Today, many types of oil are produced for two-stroke gasoline engines. However, manufacturers of power tools, especially well-known ones, almost always recommend the use of their own lubricants for gas-powered tool motors, that is, products under their own brand. It is assumed that oil is ideal for power tools from this manufacturer, since it is designed specifically for it. This is also true for other manufacturing companies.

Representative offices of companies producing gasoline tools claim that they do not have information about how their chainsaws work with foreign oils. When using the original product, they guarantee proper and long-term operation. This does not mean that the tool will definitely fail if the wrong oil the fuel mixture . It is likely that the chainsaw will work no worse. However, there is a chance of being denied a free warranty repair if it is determined that oil other than the recommended one was used.

If the manufacturer does not indicate in the instructions for using the tool which lubricant is recommended to be used, then it is allowed to mix gasoline with any two-stroke oil that is currently available. It is still recommended to buy products from well-known companies, so as not to buy an outright fake and not pay with engine failure. Craftsmen from services whose reviews are found online speak well of products from Shtil, Makita or Husqvarna. It’s hard to say what’s more here – advertising or really good quality.

READ Fuel Consumption Standards for the Stihl 180 Chainsaw

The ratio of gasoline and oil for a chainsaw

For information on what ratio to prepare the mixture and what chainsaw oil For any equipment that uses two-stroke gasoline engines, the correct proportion is indicated both in the instructions for the unit and on the oil container. When using the original product, as a rule, the ratio is 1:50. If you have to prepare the fuel mixture using “non-native” oil, the proportion is changed to 1:40 . Simple arithmetic calculations will show that per liter of gasoline you need 20 “cubes” of original lubricant or 25 cm 3 of products from other companies.

As a guide to the composition of the mixture, you should only take into account the information from the official instructions of the tool manufacturer. Some companies have a gasoline to chainsaw oil ratio of 1:30, 1:40 or even 1:100. Therefore, you should not be lazy to read the original instructions. In order for the proportion to be accurate, it is convenient to use a disposable “twenty” syringe. If a large amount of fuel mixture , you can limit yourself to the measuring scale, which is found on virtually all standard oil containers.

Husqvarna 137.142 DOES NOT SUPPLY OIL TO THE CHAIN!!!

For even more information about repairs and tool selection, visit our website www.LookTool.Ru, we welcome everyone.

Which chainsaw chain oil is best to use, choosing chain oil for chainsaws and chainsaws

What kind of oil

select and use to
lubricate chainsaws
/chainsaws.

READ How to Distinguish an Original Stihl Chain from a Fake

It must be remembered that storing the fuel mixture for the future is in most cases unjustified, except in cases where the fuel mixture will be used within 1-3 days.

Types and quality of chainsaw oils

Even a cursory glance at the shelves of stores selling gasoline-powered tools gives the impression that each manufacturer of garden equipment produces its own oil . Most likely, products are ordered from professional developers, and then only bottled into appropriate containers. Since the lubrication of two-stroke engines is subject to increased requirements due to the peculiarities of their operation, using the wrong oils to create a fuel mixture is fraught with bad consequences.

Parameters by which it is customary to compare the quality of two-stroke oils:

  • base (mineral or synthetic);
  • lubricating characteristics;
  • environmental parameters;
  • exhaust toxicity;
  • wear and burning of rings;
  • cleaning properties;
  • degree of smoke generation;
  • degree of biodegradability.

Judging by the reviews of chainsaw owners, if the equipment is used infrequently and with light loads, there is not much difference whether to use inexpensive mineral water or branded synthetics . The safety margin of the tool is such that in this case it is more likely to break from an unsuccessful fall than from poor-quality lubrication. All properties provided by the manufacturer of high-quality oil will show themselves in the following cases:

  • low quality fuel is used;
  • long and intense loads on the chainsaw;
  • prolonged and incorrect gas operation.

It is not recommended to constantly change the rotation speed during long-term use - the more stable the engine operation (that is, the less often the speed changes), the longer the saw will work during intensive use. This is why synthetics were originally intended for powerful professional tools - where the pistons get seriously hot and the loads are high. However, synthetics definitely won’t hurt household saws either.

READ You Can Cut Dead Wood Without a Permit in 2019

Chainsaw chain lubrication

Quite often the question arises - what oil for a chainsaw chain ? To lubricate the working element of a chainsaw, its chain, it is necessary to use special oils designed specifically for this purpose. These are the so-called adhesive oils . Many people use other varieties, engine or transmission, but they will not be as effective as a special adhesive oil . This is due to the fact that the structure of the special lubricant contains adhesive components that force it to “stick” to the chain. Accordingly, less of this product is lost as the chain rotates, and the chain and bar are subject to less wear and longer service life.

An essential parameter for oil intended for chain lubrication is thickness. Products that are too liquid are subject to increased consumption. Oils are also produced that subsequently decompose, thus not harming the environment. They use a plant base. Their cost is slightly higher than regular ones.

What Oil to Lubricate the Husqvarna Chainsaw Chain

Oil for chain lubrication is poured into a special tank up to the neck. It should be added while refueling the fuel mixture , because if the chain lubricant is underfilled, it may run out before gasoline. Which, in turn, can lead to overheating of the circuit. In the documents, the manufacturer indicates the oil consumption for the chain. However, it often differs to a lesser or greater extent due to differences in properties. When operating in cold weather, it is necessary to fill in oil with a low thickening point in order to avoid failure of the oil pump .

A chainsaw is a convenient, productive, reliable tool. It is indispensable for construction work, collecting firewood, sawing trees or logs. With proper use, appropriate maintenance, and compliance with safety requirements, this device will last a long time and will delight you with trouble-free operation.

Specifics of repairing Chinese chainsaws

A significant share of the imported chainsaw range is made up of Chinese-made chainsaw equipment. Many models have been copied with greater or less success from the best European designs.

When the saw chain of a chainsaw moves in the groove of the bar due to friction, a large amount of heat is released. If oil does not flow to the chainsaw chain, it is necessary to stop work and take all measures to eliminate the malfunction of the lubrication system. The combination of heavy loads and overheating of the headset is accompanied by its accelerated wear and early failure.

  • Without exception, all chainsaws and their electric analogues are equipped with systems of the same operating principle, through which the lubrication of the bar, saw chain and its drive parts is carried out.
  • The standard composition of this device includes a reservoir from which chain oil is supplied to the inlet of a pump with a fixed or adjustable capacity.
  • Next, the working fluid in a dosed amount enters the groove of the bar, in which it is evenly distributed by the shanks of the saw chain over the entire headset and the working surface of the drive sprocket crown.

Performance tires with a length of 400 mm or more are equipped with a driven sprocket. Periodic lubrication of the bearing is carried out individually, after 6-8 hours of operation.

The correct choice of consumable lubricant and flawless operation of the system contribute to complete lubrication, effective cooling of sawing equipment and the complete exhaustion of its service life.

There are several external signs that the chain on a chainsaw is not lubricated. First of all, this:

  • constant oil level in the tank;
  • increased load on the engine;
  • accelerated wear of the cutting edges of saw links;
  • characteristic smell of overheated wood.

In the simplest version, the cause of oil starvation may be clogging of the oil channels with sawdust. This drawback is typical for budget headsets that do not have convenient access to problem areas.

Why the Chainsaw Chain Doesn't Lubricate

Content

DIY chainsaw repair

All malfunctions of chainsaws can be divided into two main groups: engine problems with all its components and systems (ignition, fuel supply system, cylinder-piston group, exhaust system) and malfunctions of other components (chain brake, lubrication system, clutch, tire, etc. .).

Engine malfunctions

  • the engine does not start;
  • starts but stalls;
  • works unstably;
  • does not develop power, i.e. It runs fine at idle, but stalls under load.

When repairing a chainsaw with your own hands, you must use the method of elimination. inspect alternately all the probable causes of a malfunction, starting with those that take the least time to check and eliminate (see here about the structure and operation of a two-stroke engine).

Ignition system

. Almost all types of engine problems listed above can be caused by ignition system failures. Therefore, when they occur, it makes sense to start troubleshooting with a spark plug. This is all the more justified since the state of the latter can provide useful information about the operation of the fuel system. So, if a problem occurs, you need to unscrew the spark plug and inspect it.

The wire is disconnected and the spark plug is unscrewed with a special wrench.

If the spark plug is dry, this means that the problem is most likely not in the ignition system, but in the fuel mixture not entering the cylinder. You can wrap the spark plug back and get to work on the fuel system. If the spark plug is heavily splashed with fuel mixture, it means there is an excess of it. This may occur due to carburetor misadjustment or violation of starting rules. The spark plug is wiped and dried, the cylinder is dried by turning off the fuel supply and operating the starter. to ventilate the combustion chamber and remove excess fuel. chainsaw chain lubrication. The chain is poorly lubricated. The main reasons why oil does not flow does not flow to the chainsaw chain. I don’t understand why there is no oil on the chain. Then install the spark plug in place and repeat the start.

The presence of a large amount of black carbon also indicates a malfunction in the fuel system.

The ratio between oil and gasoline in the mixture may be incorrect, the carburetor may not be adjusted, or low-quality oil may be used. The spark plug is washed in gasoline, cleaned of carbon deposits with a needle or awl, the electrodes are cleaned with fine sandpaper and replaced.

In all these cases, it would be a good idea to check the gap between the spark plug electrodes. Depending on its brand, it should be in the range of 0.5-0.65 mm. You also need to check the spark plug seal. If it is worn out or damaged, the tightness of the combustion chamber may not be ensured, which leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinder and problems in engine operation.

Even if, when checking the spark plug, there is good reason to believe that the fault is in the fuel system, you need to check the spark plug for the presence of a spark. At least to be sure that everything is in order. For this:

  • put the ignition cable on the spark plug;
  • using pliers with insulated handles, apply the thread or nut of the spark plug to the cylinder;
  • pull the starter handle and watch. whether there is a spark or not.

READ Chainsaw Chain Oil Consumption

If there is no spark, you just need to replace the spark plug. If the new spark plug does not have a spark, you need to check the condition of the high-voltage wire for a break and contact with the spark plug.

The reason for the lack of a spark may also be a faulty ignition module or a violation of the gap between it and the flywheel magnetic circuit. It should be 0.2 mm. Violation of the gap becomes especially likely if the saw was previously disassembled and the flywheel and ignition module were removed. The gap is set using a 0.2 mm thick gasket placed between the flywheel boss and the ignition module. A faulty ignition module must be replaced.

Having checked the ignition system in this way and not finding a malfunction, you can move on to the fuel mixture supply system.

Fuel supply system

. If by inspection of the spark plug it is determined that fuel is not entering the cylinder, all possible reasons for this need to be considered. It could be:

  • failure of fuel to flow from the tank due to a clogged hole in its lid (breather), while a vacuum is created in the tank, preventing fuel from leaking out;
  • contamination of the fuel filter installed in the tank;
  • no or insufficient supply of fuel mixture from the carburetor to the cylinder.

To diagnose the first two reasons, it is enough to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and see whether fuel flows out of it or not. If it flows in full stream, the breather and filter do not need to be checked; if it does not flow or flows weakly, we can assume that the cause of the malfunction has been found. The breather is cleaned with a needle. The fuel filter is removed through the filler hole of the empty fuel tank using a wire hook, along with a suction hose, from which the filter is disconnected and cleaned or replaced with a new one. Chainsaw manufacturers recommend changing the fuel filter every 3 months.

The chainsaw does not supply oil to the chain.

What to do?

Reasons for stopping the oil supply in a chainsaw

A brief overview of why there is oil in a chainsaw

stopped supplying the tire from the tank. Support our channel in any way you can.

Insufficient supply of the fuel mixture from the carburetor to the cylinder or a violation of the correct ratio between fuel and air mixed in the carburetor can occur for several reasons: due to a clogged air filter, unadjusted carburetor, clogged channels or filter mesh.

As a rule, repairing chainsaws is not complete without cleaning the air filter, since it gets dirty quite quickly. When this happens, the flow of air into the carburetor is reduced, and the fuel mixture leaving it becomes too rich, which disrupts the normal operation of the engine. You need to carefully remove a dirty filter for cleaning so that dirt does not get into the carburetor. The filter should be cleaned or washed in water with some detergent, dried and installed back.

READ Adjusting Chainsaw Caliber BP 2600

Carburetor misalignment can be corrected by adjusting it. This is usually done using three screws. maximum and minimum speed and idle speed screw. Adjustment must be carried out in strict accordance with the instructions, failure to comply with which may lead to engine damage. Some saw manufacturers leave only one adjustment screw (idle speed). to prevent unwanted interference by inexperienced users with the operation of the carburetor. For an example of adjusting a chainsaw carburetor, see the article Working with a chainsaw.

If adjusting the carburetor does not help, you need to clean its channels and filter mesh, and at the same time check the integrity of the membrane. Carburetor. one of the most complex devices of a chainsaw, so you need to start disassembling and cleaning it with a full understanding of the responsibility of this operation. It consists of many small parts that have the ability to unnoticeably jump out of their places and get lost irretrievably, so that after disassembling this capricious device, you may not be able to reassemble it.

Below is a diagram of another chainsaw carburetor.

If you do not have experience and self-confidence, it is better to entrust the repair of a chainsaw carburetor to a service center specialist. Sometimes, to properly clean the carburetor, it is necessary to use ultrasonic cleaning.

Muffler

. The main reasons why oil does not flow are tensioning the chainsaw chain. Right. Often the cause of engine malfunction, especially when the engine runs normally at low speeds and stalls under load, is clogging of the muffler spark arrester with combustion products, which prevents normal exhaust. Repair in this case consists of removing the muffler, disassembling it (if it is dismountable) and wet cleaning it from carbon deposits using detergents. The non-removable muffler is dried with a hairdryer after washing. Remember that carbon deposits contain substances that are carcinogens, and dry cleaning, which could result in their inhalation, is unacceptable. When removing the muffler, plug the engine exhaust hole with a clean rag.

Some of the reasons why the muffler may become clogged. This is the use of a fuel mixture with an excess amount of oil (the amount of oil is more than the manufacturer recommends), and the use of either oil not intended for two-stroke engines or low-quality oil.

Cylinder-piston group

. Malfunctions of the cylinder-piston group are among the most serious. This is wear of the cylinder and piston, scratches and scuffs on their surface, wear or sinking in the grooves of the piston rings, wear of the crankshaft bearings. Most of these malfunctions lead to a drop in cylinder pressure and, as a result, the engine is unable to start, or is unable to produce full power. There are several ways to assess the condition of the cylinder-piston group (CPG).

You can remove the muffler and look through the window that opens, in which part of the side surface of the cylinder is visible. Despite the limitations of the review, it is still possible to obtain a general idea of ​​the state of the CPG in this way.

It is useful to measure the compression in the engine, which is quite informative regarding the condition of the CPG parts. If no oil flows to the chainsaw chain during operation, why is the chain not lubricated? The operation is carried out using a compression gauge installed in the spark plug hole.

READ How to Tension a Chain on a Stihl Saw

The crankshaft is turned using an electric motor (drill) with a flexible shaft or manually with a starter, while monitoring the pressure using a pressure gauge. The latter for a working chainsaw should be no lower than 8-9 atm (0.8-0.9 MPa). As it decreases, engine power also decreases. At a pressure of 5 atm, the engine may work, but only at idle.

The condition of the CPG can only be accurately assessed by completely disassembling the engine. by disconnecting the crankcase from the cylinder and removing the piston. If the latter has burrs, chips or deep scratches, it needs to be replaced. With regard to the cylinder, if the surface is worn out or damaged, it is possible to bore it to the repair size. Low compression may also be caused by wear or coking of the piston ring. A working ring should be clean of carbon deposits, sit freely in the piston groove and press tightly against the inner surface of the cylinder.

Chain lubrication system

If there is a significant (small is considered normal) oil leakage, you need to check the tightness of connecting the tubes to the pump fittings. They may fall off or crack. Violation of the tightness of the oil line, in addition to drips, can also lead to insufficient lubrication of the chain. The pump begins to suck in air, which affects its performance. Violation of the tightness is eliminated by replacing the tubes or sealing them with sealant.

The most serious failure of the lubrication system is cracks in the oil pump housing. In this case, it will have to be replaced.

Chain brake

Replacement of wear parts

If you do not replace wearing parts in a timely manner, their excessive wear will negatively affect the remaining components of the chainsaw. In particular, if the tire and drive sprocket are not changed in time, increased vibration will negatively affect the crankshaft bearings. The maximum working depth of the sprocket teeth should be 0.5 mm. In practice, sprockets are often operated to a wear depth of 1 mm or more. unaware that this leads to increased load on the crankshaft bearings and accelerated failure. When 3-4 chains wear out, it is necessary to change the tire itself; by this time its wear reaches its maximum values.

The chainsaw bar wears especially hard in the area where cutting is done most frequently, usually. this is the underside of the guide bar. To ensure uniform wear, each time the chain is replaced, the bar must be turned 180° relative to the horizontal axis.

When installing a new chain, a new drive sprocket should be installed. Since under normal load the service life of the drive sprocket is twice as long as the service life of the chain, it is advisable to use one sprocket for alternate operation of two chains. Thanks to this, the sprocket and chains wear out almost simultaneously. If a new chain is placed on a worn sprocket, the drive links of the chain will wear out much faster. For cost-effective operation of a chainsaw, always use together: one guide bar, two chain sprockets, four saw chains.

Why the Chainsaw Chain Doesn't Lubricate

Source

Reasons for decreased system performance and efficiency

The required amount of oil is not supplied to the chainsaw chain for several reasons. The most common failures include:

  • clogging of the filter located in the oil tank;
  • mechanical failure of one of the pump worm drive elements;
  • In winter, the performance of the blower is reduced due to filling the system with too thick oil.

In the latter case, the drive and all pump parts operate under increased loads, causing serious mechanical damage.

The main criterion for choosing chainsaw oil

For most users, the operation of the device is not difficult. However, the main question remains the problem of which oil to use to lubricate the chainsaw chain. Choosing the right product means extending the trouble-free life of the device.

One of the selection criteria is to take into account the saw manufacturer. For domestic instruments Druzhba and Ural, oil used in conjunction with 76 grade gasoline or a motorcycle compound is excellent. The ratio with fuel is calculated according to the scheme 1:25. That is, it needs to be filled into the tank no more than 4%.

If we are talking about such high-quality foreign models as Shtil and Husqvarna, then it is recommended to use branded oil in conjunction with grade 92 or 95 fuel. Such a product for maintaining the chain in working condition is produced directly by brands that produce chainsaws:

  • Stihl;
  • Makita;
  • Husqvarna;

The use of this equipment also implies a different relationship. Consistency proportions are calculated according to the 1:40 scheme. This is only 2.5%. Foreign-made tools are very demanding on the quality of the product being poured. The fuel must be purified and free from various impurities.

Feature of independent troubleshooting

A complete independent repair of chainsaw chain lubrication, all things being equal, requires knowledge of the interaction of all elements of the system, the availability of tools and plumbing skills.

Restoring the operating parameters of many chainsaws involves partial or complete dismantling of the component equipment. To perform complex repair work, it is better to use the capabilities and technical potential of service workshops.

Parts with broken threads and damaged spline joints, as well as non-separable structures that come with the lubrication system of popular Shtil 180 chainsaws and other similar models must be replaced.

If, when the tank is filled, oil does not flow into the headset structure, the reason should be sought in the pump itself. Dismantling and disassembling the mechanism will help identify faulty parts and eliminate the problem by replacing them.

Can You Use Automotive Oil for a Chainsaw?

Content

Oil for chainsaw chains. What oil should I use to lubricate a chainsaw chain?

Chainsaws are a popular tool for those people who have to do many household chores on their own. They are used for different purposes - to prepare firewood, cut dry branches... Unfortunately, in order for the device to last for a long time, you need to properly care for it, wisely choosing different compositions. A special role is played by oil for chainsaw chains, which is selected based on the operating principles of the tool and its characteristics.

What to consider?

Can You Use Automotive Oil for a Chainsaw?

Due care should be taken to lubricate the saw chain. Can chainsaw chains be used? Automotive oil is suitable for this purpose. You should immediately select a special oil that will not harm the oil pump. Today, this will ensure the high-quality operation of a set of self-lubricating accounting programs. The chain does not require proper storage, sometimes it is immersed in oil; in case of wear, there is no need to try to revive the old chain - it is easier to replace it. Which oil to choose for chainsaw chains, so that it is safe and does not meet all the requirements?

Types and composition

The choice of specific oil should be based on the duration of the project and how the chainsaw is operated. Mineral compositions are suitable for the non-warm summer season. In other cases, it is better to use synthetic or semi-synthetic oils. It is important to consider which chainsaw oil to pour into a special tank. For the purpose of lubrication, used machine chains. Chain lubrication if desired

You should not use used oils, which will lead to clogging of the fuel accounting system, and then to serious damage to the tool.

Chainsaw chain oil is thoroughly purified so that lubrication is carried out correctly and not carefully. If you use low-quality compounds, there will be no contact between the elements of the saw and the tire, sparks will appear, and subsequently the moving parts of the saw will wear out.

How to choose?

Each chainsaw has a carburetor two-stroke engine and not two tanks: one is filled with gasoline, the next is filled with oil. When choosing a composition for lubrication, zoning plays an important role - similar to oil, preferably minimal. The next important indicator is resistance to low temperatures: the oil should not solidify at extreme temperatures, which will ensure the quality of operation of the entire tool.

READ Chainsaw Idle Speed ​​Adjustment

For lubrication, it is advisable to use adhesive oil for chainsaw chains, containing special substances with which the composition adheres well to the chain. High-quality oil will remain on the chain as it rotates, and the chain itself will be more reliable in operation.

An additional important indicator of lubricant is thickness: if the composition is liquid, it will be consumed in larger quantities. To avoid harming the environment when using a chainsaw, it is important to use vegetable-based oil - its waste will decompose in the natural environment.

What kind of oil for chainsaw

choose, because modern domestic manufacturers offer a wide range of options? Among the specialized manufacturers, we note such brands as Divinol, Bio-Kettenol, Ravenol, VegOil, Mobil, Castrol, Shell. Let's take a closer look at the features of their products.

Divinol

This popular rumor is that the brand offers to evaluate high-quality chain lubricant, which is distinguished by good adhesive and lubrication abilities, so the lubrication is carried out efficiently, and the links and hinges of the chain are reliably protected from wear. The optimal combination of viscosity and temperature characteristics ensures that this oil is used in any season and not at any temperature.

Divinol offers different oils for chainsaw chains. Chainsaw chain oil - which one to use. For information on what ratio to prepare the mixture and what chainsaw oil to use, you should study the instructions. Which one to use

from among them? Zweitaktoel FF is of interest due to its economical consumption, combination with any fuel, prevention of aging of the fuel mixture and excellent protection against corrosion. Today, this oil is used at any temperature. Divinol Kettenol not Divinol Kettenol Bio are used to lubricate chains and chainsaw tires. Using these compounds, there is an option to reliably protect chain links and joints from wear while guaranteeing economical oil consumption. High-quality organic oils of this brand provide excellent lubrication and non-stick properties, so their use is not only simple, but also environmentally friendly.

ENGINE OIL FOR CHAINSAW. What is the difference?

Two identical chainsaws

, same operating conditions, same working hours. The only difference.

READ How to Operate a Stihl Chainsaw Properly

Ravenol

What kind of oil

to lubricate
the chainsaw chain
?
Some note Ravenol brand compositions. Two-stroke chainsaw oil. What oil to use for in the field of oils. Thus, Ravenol Saegekettenoel S eighty-five is a special mineral oil created in Germany from high-quality base oil with the addition of a number of additives. It is suitable for lubricating
saw chains and has good adhesion and non-lubricating properties. Thanks to special additives, the oil remains on the chain even at high saw speeds, and the chain itself becomes more reliable in operation. The oil does not provide reliable protection against corrosion if work is carried out in less than favorable conditions. Thanks to the use of this composition, of course:

  • reduce vibration of the saw chain;
  • reliably protect it from corrosion;
  • cool the circuit due to good thermal conductivity;
  • It's not easy to cut any kind of wood quickly.

Stihl BioPlus

Everyone dreams, every user knows about Stihl brand products. Eco-friendly chain saw oil "Stil" is effective and is based on plant components. Chain oil

has high quality, which of course can be appreciated in any climate conditions. Due to their environmental friendliness, Stihl products have always been popular with customers. Particularly noteworthy is the Stihl BioPlus chain lubricant, which is designed for processing high-speed chains. It is different:

  • resistance to oiling;
  • excellent adhesion thanks to special additives;
  • excellent protection of the cutting set;
  • excellent fluidity, which is maintained even at low temperatures;
  • oxidation resistance.

And the most important thing is that the oil is absolutely safe for the external environment, since it decomposes naturally.

Stihl semi-synthetic oil

Stihl chainsaw chain oil is an environmentally friendly lubricant, as it is made from high-quality virgin raffinates. The oil contains no impurities that can pollute the environment. Oil for chainsaw chains. What oil to use for. There is an option to use this product in any climate conditions, and it will be equally effective in leading such a life even at low temperatures. Stihl chain oil provides reliable wear protection for saw chains. Buy this composition, of course, in different volumes. it depends on the characteristics of the chainsaw

not the degree of load on its surface.

READ Chainsaw Carver 25 12 Fuel Hoses Replacement

Husqvarna

The products of this brand also do not need unnecessary introductions, since oil has proven itself only from the best side. I'm interested in Vegeil Husqvarna chain lubrication oil, which is created on a plant basis, has good lubricating properties and is not highly environmentally friendly. Which chainsaw chain oil is best to use when lubricating chainsaws from Stil, Husqvarna and other manufacturers. What type of chain oil should I use? The oil is economical, biodegradable, and has a low viscosity even when operating at low temperatures. Due to their excellent performance characteristics, oils of this brand are considered one of the best.

Oregon

What oil to use to lubricate a chainsaw chain

How to choose one so that it can be used throughout the year? The Oregon brand offers compounds that are suitable for all types of instruments. Viscosity stability is the key to the fact that the oil is suitable for use throughout the year. The composition includes purified mineral oils, to which additives are added. The peculiarity of Oregon compositions is that they are manufactured on the basis of high-molecular compounds. The distinctive features of the oil include:

  • protection of the guide bar and chain from overheating;
  • vibration reduction;
  • preventing corrosion by forming an oil film.

Thanks to special adhesive additives, this oil acquires greater stickiness and viscosity, so even at high speeds it will not splash and will not remain on the chain or tire. Thanks to regular use of oil, you can reduce the load on the cutting set and sell the entire chainsaw mechanism. Special additives reduce saw energy consumption, increasing the efficiency of the sawing process. The main thing is that with the use of these products no tar deposits are formed.

Sage-Kettenoil

This oil has such a specific composition that it is completely biodegradable, but in this case remains safe from exposure to harmful substances. Thanks to the combination of vegetable oils with high-quality additives, the chain is lubricated more efficiently, like oil, it is reliably protected from wear and tear during operation. Due to the good adhesive and non-lubricating ability, lubrication is carried out as conveniently as possible, but not optimally, and of course, operating the composition in frosts of up to thirty degrees.

Source

Checking the system for oil output and performance

A dirty oil filter results in a significant reduction in pump performance. It is easy to check this parameter. To do this, you need to hold the headset of the saw running at working speed over a clean sheet of paper.

Based on the density and size of the oil strip, you can confidently judge the condition of the system and the complexity of the upcoming repair.

To the question why the repaired lubrication system works, but the chain does not receive oil in the required quantity, there is no definite answer. The reason for the failure may be errors made during assembly, failure of standard adjustments, or a discrepancy between the density and viscosity of the selected composition and the declared characteristics.

Oil starvation of the headset is possible when installing a longer productive bar on a household saw with a non-regulated pump, which is included with professional-class chainsaw equipment.

Specifics of repairing Chinese chainsaws

A significant share of the imported chainsaw range is made up of Chinese-made chainsaw equipment. Many models have been copied with greater or less success from the best European designs.

The main advantage of Chinese products in the budget segment is the high level of interchangeability of spare parts, components and systems. To repair Chinese chainsaws, in some cases, you can use components from models from other manufacturers that are identical in power and purpose.

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